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Approaching a sloping beach, shallow water surface waves of Airy get suddenly or propagation speed at the point of surface , say, where the tangent of the surface “coincide” with that of the water-bottom , losing the cruising sound speed of propagation so high on a deep open sea. That is, the tunamis gain instantaneously a propagation speed just before the crest as , , and a propagation speed just after the trough as , . We would have thus a big crush between the crest rushing forward and the trough rushing backward. This is a mathematical structure of tunamis “on” a sloping beach, in particular.

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